You pick up a ball that used to feel perfect. The span feels long now. Or the layout stopped matching your game. Or you found a used gem online drilled for someone else’s hand.
Now you are stuck on the same question every league bowler hits: pay to plug and redrill it, or just buy new?
We are going to give you a clean decision rule, the real numbers, and the legality traps most guides skip. No fluff. By the end you will know exactly which way to go with the ball in your hand.
The short answer
Here is the rule we use, and we will back it up below.
Redrill when the coverstock is still good and the ball is worth more than about twice the redrill cost. Buy new when the cover is cooked, the tech is old, or the ball is cheap enough that a redrill costs almost as much as replacing it.
Put simply: a plug and redrill on a $220 ball with a healthy cover is smart money. A plug and redrill on a $75 ball is usually a waste.
Now the details.
What a plug and redrill actually costs
Prices move by shop and region, but the ranges are consistent across pro shops and forums.
- Basic redrill, new holes only, no plug needed: about $30 to $50
- Plug and redrill, fill the old holes and drill fresh: about $60 to $100
- Full layout change plus refinish: often $100 or more
A straight plug and redrill lands around $75 at most shops. If you want a brand new layout designed from your PAP, plus a resurface to clean up the cover, you are closer to $100 to $120.
Two things drive the price. First, how much plugging is needed. A full plug of three holes takes more material and cure time than filling one. Second, whether the ball needs a resurface after. Plug lines show, so a lot of redrills get a quick surface hit to blend them.
Ask your shop for a flat quote before you hand the ball over. A good pro shop will tell you on the spot.
What a new ball actually costs
Compare that redrill against real replacement prices, not the box price you wish it was.
- Entry and spare balls: about $60 to $100
- Mid performance: about $130 to $170
- Top shelf, the big flagship releases: about $200 to $270
Remember, a new ball is not just the ball. You still pay to drill it, usually $30 to $60 on top, unless the shop bundles drilling with the purchase. So a $200 flagship is really $230 to $260 out the door.
That drilling cost matters, because it means “buy new” is never as cheap as the sticker.
The break-even math
Here is the number that settles most arguments. We call it the 50 percent rule.
If a plug and redrill costs more than half of what a comparable new, drilled ball would cost, lean toward buying new. If it costs less than half, lean toward the redrill.
Run it on real gear.
- A $75 redrill on a $250 drilled flagship is 30 percent of replacement. Redrill all day.
- A $75 redrill on a $110 drilled mid ball is close to 70 percent of replacement. Now you are paying most of a new ball’s price to keep an old one. Think hard.
- A $75 redrill on an $80 spare ball makes no sense. Buy the new spare.
The rule is not magic. It is just a way to stop yourself from sinking real money into gear that is not worth saving. When the redrill approaches the cost of new, the new ball wins because you also get a fresh cover, current tech, and zero plug lines.
Redrill wins when…
Keep the ball and pay for the work in these cases.
The cover is still good. This is the big one. Coverstock is what makes the ball hook. If the surface is healthy and not tracked out, the ball still has its reaction. You are only changing the fit or the layout, not the engine.
It is a premium ball. The more you paid, the more a redrill makes sense. Flagships hold their motion for a long time. A $75 fix on a $220 ball is easy math.
You just need a fit change. Span grew, thumb swells different than it used to, you want more or less pitch. That is a fit problem, not a ball problem. Redrill and move on.
You are switching grip styles. Going conventional to fingertip, or adding a thumb, or dropping to two-handed. That requires a redrill no matter what, and there is no reason to trash a good ball to do it.
You bought a used ball drilled for someone else. This is one of the best deals in bowling. A used flagship for $60 plus a $75 plug and redrill gets you a top ball for under $140. That beats buying it new every time, as long as the cover checks out.
Buy new when…
Walk away and replace it in these cases.
The cover is shot. Deep tracks, oil soaked, cracked, or worn thin. A redrill fixes the fit but does nothing for a dead cover. You would be paying to make a bad ball fit well. Skip it.
It needs so much resurface there is not enough material left. Every resurface removes a little cover. Take off too much and you risk going under legal size, or drilling into thin material. If the ball is already down to the wire, retire it.
The tech is old. Balls from a decade ago do not move like today’s gear. If you are chasing scores on tougher shots, a modern cover and core will do more for you than saving an outdated ball. Sentimental value is real, but do not confuse it with performance.
The ball is cheap. Entry level and spare balls in the $60 to $100 range are not worth a plug and redrill. The redrill costs almost as much as new. Buy the new one and get a fresh cover with it.
You actually want a different reaction. This is the trap. Bowlers try to redrill a heavy oil ball into a dry lane ball. Layout helps, but it cannot turn a strong solid into a clean pearl. If you want a genuinely different shape, you want a different ball, not the same ball with new holes.
The USBC and legality traps
This is where redrills quietly go wrong. Get these right or you risk an illegal ball on league night.
Five holes, all for gripping. Since the 2020 rule change, there are no more balance holes. A legal ball can have no more than five holes, one for each finger and the thumb, and every hole must be used for gripping. If your old ball has a balance hole, it has to be plugged to stay legal. Any hole you do not put a finger or thumb in has to go.
Static weights still have to pass. After plugging and redrilling, the ball must hold USBC weight limits, top to bottom, side to side, and finger to thumb. Every plug shifts weight around. A ball with several old plugs can run out of legal room, which limits where new holes can go. A good driller checks this before you ever throw it.
Give the plug time to cure. Plugging compound needs about 24 to 48 hours to fully harden before drilling. Rushed plugs crack. If a shop offers to plug and redrill while you wait in 20 minutes, that is a red flag on a full plug job.
Cracked balls do not get redrilled. The drilling process stresses the ball. Run it through a cracked ball and you can turn a hairline into a blowout. If it is cracked, it is done.
How many times can one ball take it
A healthy ball can usually handle three to five full redrills over its life. Bigger balls, the 15 and 16 pounders, take more because there is more material to work with. Balls with strong asymmetric cores sometimes take fewer, because the core eats into where you can safely drill.
Each redrill leaves plug lines and stress points where the plug meets the cover. Stack up too many and you invite cracks around the plugs. If a ball already has four or five plug jobs in it, treat the next redrill as its last and watch it closely.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to plug and redrill a bowling ball?
Around $60 to $100 for a standard plug and redrill. A basic redrill with no plugging runs $30 to $50. A full layout change plus a refinish can top $100. Ask your shop for a flat quote first.
How many times can you redrill a bowling ball?
Usually three to five times over the ball’s life, depending on cover thickness, core design, and how close old holes came to the core. Heavier balls generally handle more.
Is it worth redrilling a bowling ball?
Yes, when the cover is still good and the ball is worth more than about twice the redrill cost. It is not worth it on cheap balls, dead covers, or gear you only kept for looks.
Does plugging a ball change how it reacts?
A small amount. Plugs shift static weight and add material where the old holes were. On a well done job the change is minor. What really changes reaction is the new layout, not the plug itself.
How long does a plug and redrill take?
Plan on a day or two, not an hour. The plug needs 24 to 48 hours to cure before the new holes get drilled. Anyone offering a full plug in minutes is cutting a corner.
Can you redrill a bowling ball yourself?
No. It needs a drill press, precise measurements from your PAP, pro grade plugging compound, and a static weight check to stay legal. A bad DIY job cracks the ball or makes it illegal. Leave it to the shop.
Does redrilling make a ball illegal for league?
Not if it is done right. The ball must end with five holes or fewer, all used for gripping, and pass USBC static weight limits. A certified driller confirms all of that before you throw it.
Before you redrill anything, know the current rule. USBC lays it out in the update on bowling ball gripping holes.
10th Frame Final Thoughts
Run the 50 percent rule and you will almost never regret the call. Good cover plus a valuable ball equals redrill. Dead cover, old tech, or a cheap ball equals buy new.
The one thing we will not let you do is dump $75 into a ball that was never worth saving, or throw out a $200 flagship because the span went long. Both are money left on the table.
When you are ready to plug, redrill, or pick out the right new ball for your game, get it done by a driller who checks your static weights and stands behind the work. Start here: Bowling Addicts Pro Shop.
Keep the good gear rolling. Stay hungry.
